This section contains answers to some common questions, as well as more detailed info for homeowners and contractors alike. There are two options for when we can come in to stain on new construction, right after it's been dried-in or at the very end of construction. The first is cheaper and recommended. Once we have stained and sealed your floor, Tyvek wrapping should be used to completely cover and protect the finished surface. We also recommend an added layer of protection such as cardboard, fiberboard or plywood to further ensure your floor remains flawless through the remainder of construction.

- It is important to verbalize often that the concrete slab will ultimately be the finished floor.

- Underslab vapor barrier/retarder (10 or 15 mil polyethylene) to be placed before concrete slab being poured. Vapor barriers can be purchased at concrete supply stores. All beams should be wrapped and all tears must be repaired prior to placing concrete slab.

- It is important to evenly creed the concrete to avoid dips and high spots. It is also necessary to adequately agitate the surface of the concrete using a "jitterbug" to bring the cement to the surface and cause the aggregate to sink down from the surface.

-To minimize the possibility of dehydration cracking, the following recommendations should be followed:

1. Make sure the mat steel in the slab areas to be exposed is well blocked up so that the steel is in the top 2" of the concrete.
2. Avoid pouring on hot, dry days, if possible. Pour early in the day during the summer.
3. As soon as possible, start wetting the concrete surface with a water sprinkler and don't remove the forms for several days; the goal is to slow down the dehydration process especially during the summer.
4. DO NOT COVER WITH PLASTIC.

- Preferably use five-sack mix (3500 psi). Do not use surface curing compounds. Limit use of fly ash if possible. Do not use fiberglass mesh or fibers in concrete mix.

- Do not walk on slab before surface is dry to avoid footprints. Allow at least one day to cure fully.

- For interiors: to achieve a polished marble-like, hard, slick finish, the concrete finishers must power trowel (burnish) slab. Avoid over burnishing, however, and allow for some porosity so that the concrete can better accept the stain.

- For exteriors: To achieve slip resistance, the concrete finishers need to apply a light broomswept finish on all exterior concrete surfaces.

ALL who are involved with the building project should read and understand the following information regarding this process. (Please see downloadable PDF form with this info.)

- Concrete should be protected from pesticides, they can discolor the concrete and alter stain penetration.

- Do not cover concrete for 30 days, any board or object left on a green slab will leave a permanent water mark or stain (all masking tapes should be removed promptly after use, the adhesive can prevent stain penetration).

- Do not leave wall plates for doors or cased openings for more than a day, this can leave water mark or stains.

- Do not nail support studs into slab.

- Do not write on slab with anything other than pencil. NEVER USE A MARKS-A-LOT! Framers are to use blue chalk only. The following are some examples of what may penetrate and permanently stain the slab: red chalk, wax pencils, adhesives (tape), PVC primer / glue, primers, paint, caulk, flux, oils, gas, grease, liquid nail, silicone, food, coke, coffee (other beverages included). Metals left on slab can leave rust and oil marks (nails, angle iron, etc.). When ladders are being used on slab, the feet of the ladder should be wrapped or capped to keep from scarring and marking the slab.

- Slab should be cleaned daily. Any stacked lumber, insulation board, pressboard, plywood, or polyethylene (plastic) can draw moisture from slab and cause patterned water stains to slab. Wall plates for doorways and cased openings need to be cut out early in framing process.

Essentially, areas that are to be scored and stained should be kept clean! However, do not at any time attempt to clean the concrete using any kind of special cleaners or chemicals. Especially avoid anything containing acid.

Slab must be kept covered during the priming / painting / lacquer processes. Protect floor with paper overlapped and taped. (No tape directly on floors.) After trim package is complete and baseboards are to be painted, it is recommended that blue painters tape and paper be applied to floor edges to protect finish. Do not leave any blue tape on the concrete surface for more than 4 hours. Only apply right before doing the work and remove immediately after. If the work cannot be completed, remove the tape and remask when you begin again.

Do not believe the myth that old concrete under carpet is not an acceptable surface for stain. Most of the images on this site are from exactly that. When carpet is removed, the tack strips that hold the carpet in place leave small holes at every 4-inches at about an inch in diameter. We patch these holes, but the patching material accepts stain slightly darker than the foundation concrete around it. If you choose, a very successful solution for this is to score a 10" border that follows the contour of every wall, and then stain this border with a darker color.

Removal of ceramic tile and VCT tile leaves a permanent pattern on the concrete surface. A topcoat of a polymer overlay is the solution if you do not want to see the "ghost" of previous tile. Kitchens, bathrooms and entry ways look fine overlaid even if surrounding areas are not. If the tile to be removed starts or stops in awkward place, then polymer overlay over the entire area is the answer.

To begin with, pay close attention to the high traffic areas. If these areas look much duller than the surrounding areas, and the stain itself starts to look different as well, you've waiting too long to protect your floors. There is a product called "mop-on-wax" (or "mop-on-polish"), and it means just that. You can use a pad applicator or sponge mop to apply. For residential, apply two coats once every year. In between annual polishings, we highly recommend a repolishing of the high traffic areas: front door, back door, hallways and the area at the bottom of staircases. For commercial locations, apply mop-on-wax as often as you like, though do not exceed a frequency of more than every 8 weeks.

For general cleaning, we recommend mopping with warm water — not hot — and just a touch of Murphy's Oil Soap. VERY IMPORTANT! DO NOT USE ANY PRODUCT WITH AMMONIA OR SOLVENTS.

For your tables and chairs, floor protectors are a must. These are sold at area hardware and home stores. If you have wood tables and chairs, purchase the felt tips that can nail directly into the bottom of the legs. If you have metal furniture, use the adhesive version. An alternate option are the clear plastic pieces that rest on the floor with your furniture on top. For plants and other heavy items sitting directly on the floor, purchase the adhesive plastic bumpers you find on the inside of cabinets and under the glass of glass tables. Corkboard cut to size is another option. Rugs are a nice touch but never use the two-sided tape to hold it in place. The mesh-type material used to hold rugs in place can leave an imprint on the seal (wax or clear coat).

Place clear plastic mats under animal water dishes and plants that sit directly on the floor that could possibly leak when watered. If not protected, the seal could become a cloudy white due to excess moisture over time.

VERY IMPORTANT! DO NOT USE HOT WATER OR ANY PRODUCT WITH AMMONIA OR SOLVENTS.